Courage

One of my lowest points in the Peace Corps was in the fall of my second year, when I returned to my assigned primary school to start the new school year. I hadn’t seen most of my students for the three months of summer vacation and on that first morning, I basically ran to the school compound, giddy and excited for the familiar faces.

I walked in that morning, however, to find many of my favorite female students missing. Girls I had grown to love and admire–active and curious young women who had gone out of their way to attend my English programs and female empowerment events–had been pulled out of school by forces beyond their control. In the previous school year, these girls had shared with me their dreams of moving to the city for university and dreams of their careers. But someone in their lives had decided that, because they are female, they were more useful at home.

UNESCO estimates that only 18% of female students in Ethiopia make it to university, and even there they face an uphill battle against sexual harassment and bias in the classroom. Last weekend I was lucky enough to participate in a gender mentorship program at Addis Ababa University, in which students were encouraged to share their fears, challenges, goals and accomplishments.

Though living in a world of blatant gender inequality can be disheartening, it makes these experiences, like meeting these Ethiopian activists, all the more moving. These women have had to face negativity, criticism and cruelty all of their lives, but they are still fighting for their dreams. They’re still fighting the uphill battle. They still believe in their potential and self worth.

Check out this blog to read more about “Berchi,” the Amharic word for courage. After three years in this infuriating and inspiring country, I can say without a doubt that Ethiopian women are the most courageous that I know.

https://berchi.wordpress.com/

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Girl Rising

Adet was featured in the female rights-focused documentary “Girl Rising!” Check out this clip to see my beloved Farmville (and Boob Mountain) 🙂 :

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Welcome to Our Library

Six months ago, Adet’s closest public library was two hours away down a bumpy, windy mud road, for a bus fare few students, or lower class Ethiopians, could afford. Six months ago, students had to share outdated, used textbooks to learn about the world.

On Saturday afternoon, we celebrated the grand opening of our new, first and only, public library, which wouldn’t have been possible without the help of friends, family, and incredibly kind strangers from home. Today, thanks to your overwhelmingly generous donations, we have 1,700 books–novels, encyclopedias, atlases, dictionaries and children’s books–right in the center of our town. (Scroll to the bottom of this post for some pictures!)

I cannot thank those who donated enough. You’ve changed the lives of my students, friends and neighbors forever. You’ve changed Adet forever. Thank you.

An especially big thank you to the following people for mailing books to Adet!

  • Alexandra Korba
  • Alexis Lavi
  • Alyssa Wolice
  • Amber Yothers
  • Andreina Ray
  • Angie Thompson
  • Ariana Carrillo
  • Arielle Sodowick
  • Bogdan Bistriceanu
  • Briana Brown
  • Brittany Fields
  • Brittney Manchester
  • Cait Chew
  • Colin Crane
  • Corey Schneider
  • Danielle Coelho
  • Darin Itdhanuvekin
  • Doris McGean
  • Erica Bleicher
  • Eva Glass
  • Georgia Wells
  • Haleigh Duggan
  • Jean Carrillo
  • Jen Holthaus
  • Joanna Blatchly
  • Jose Espinoza
  • Josh Desai
  • Karen Chittenden
  • Kate Faherty
  • Katie Tippett
  • Kay Sardo
  • Kish Raja
  • Laura Jernigan
  • Lauren Hardgrove
  • Linda McGean
  • Lindsey Carothers
  • Linsey Gosh
  • Liz Watson
  • Lois Hanson
  • Mackenzie Hill
  • Maria Smyslova
  • Martin Franzini
  • Meagan Carney
  • Meg Broad
  • Mika Carillo
  • Myra Carillo
  • Nadiah Abidin
  • Nancy Koenig
  • Nikki Dillon
  • Pam Sullivan
  • Patricia Yacob
  • Patrick Sullivan
  • Renee Schoch
  • Robin Sager
  • Samantha Gannon
  • Sarah Fugate
  • Sedale McCall
  • Selina Morris
  • Shannon Radsky
  • Sofia Bobie
  • Sophie Decher
  • Toni & Wally Leopold
  • Vanessa Buenconsejo
  • Vered Shpigel
  • Veronica Torres
  • Winston Wong

Now here are some pictures of the grand opening:

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Bottle Bricks… Happy Ethiopian Earth Day!

In honor of Ethiopians doing everything late (Christmas is in January, New Year’s is in September, it’s currently only 2006) my students and I decided to celebrate Earth Day… in June.

First, we went around town collecting old water bottles, bottle caps, and garbage (paper, rags, food wrappers, etc). There’s A LOT of litter in Adet, so this didn’t take long.

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Then we stuffed garbage into the water bottles, pushing it down with sticks, so the bottles became really hard like bricks.

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We ended up with 102 garbage-stuffed water bottles.

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We used them as bricks (bottle bricks) to build a cement bench on our school campus.

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Then we decorated the final product with old bottle caps.

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And now our school campus has an Earth Day garbage bench! (Yes, I’m rocking an Obama t-shirt).

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Stop Telling Women to Smile

Yesterday afternoon, 42 incredible young women took a step to stop gender-based harassment in Ethiopia. As part of the global “Stop Telling Women to Smile” campaign, my school’s 5th through 8th grade Girls Club students crafted messages for Adet’s street harassers (including my favorites, “My name is not Baby, Honey, Beautiful or You,” and “Women deserve respect, not your cat calls”) and then covered the town with their anti-harassment posters.

While part of me will always see my students as babies (my babies), today I realized that they’re also some of the strongest, most beautiful, mature individuals I’ll ever know. Today, I’m proud and inspired and so empowered having watched them bravely step up to help give all Ethiopian women a voice against harassment.

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25 Weird Things I’ve Learned As a Peace Corps Volunteer

  1. Chickens and goats love to eat broccoli.
  2. Oranges only turn orange if it gets cold enough at night.
  3. Birds are attracted to their reflection.
  4. Closed windows are the number one cause of death for birds between the ages of 0 and 100. So many birds die here because they fly into closed windows and break their necks.
  5. After a week or two, unwashed hair will stop looking greasy and instead just look tangled and knotty.
  6. It’s possible to live weeks, even months, completely unaware that you have a parasite.
  7. Squatting is the most natural and easy position to poo.
  8. Mud is great for heat insulation. Even when it’s freezing and rainy outside, the inside of my mud house is always warm.
  9. That said, it can get really cold in Africa…. like winter jacket cold.
  10. It’s possible to carry a goat and ride a bike at the same time. Just put the goat on your back like a backpack.
  11. In some parts of the world, people eat raw slabs of meat like popcorn.
  12. In some parts of the world, 8-year-olds still breast-feed.
  13. Contrary to popular belief, roosters crow at all hours of the day, not just at sunrise. I think the first person to ever kill a chicken did it to shut the little guy up, not to eat him.
  14. Roosters are freaking obnoxious animals.
  15. Zebras are just stripe-covered donkeys.
  16. The Lion King illustrators were big fat liars. Hyenas are huge!
  17. Camel faces and giraffe faces look exactly the same. After looking both animals straight in the eye, you’ll swear they’re twins.
  18. It can take 5 or 6 hours to drive 25 miles. (Oh, the joy of mud roads.)
  19. The (clothing) washing machine is the greatest invention of all time. I miss it every day.
  20. Ethiopia has the largest fly population in the world. (Okay, maybe I’m making that up…. but I’m pretty sure it’s true.)
  21. A mule looks just like a horse. I still don’t understand the difference.
  22. It’s relatively easy to live without electricity. It’s painfully difficult to live without bagels, ice cream and cheese.
  23. Boiled pumpkin is the most amazingly delicious food. Never again will I waste those babies on making jack-o-lanterns.
  24. When you don’t have a fridge, fruit and vegetables go moldy faster if they’re in zip-lock bags.
  25. (In Ethiopia) loud front-door-knocking in the middle of the night can only mean one thing: the water in the tap is back on after a really long dry spell. (Although being woken up by manic knocking in the middle of the night would have freaked me out in America, in Peace Corps life, it’s engendered a Pavlov’s Dogs-like reaction, and I usually grab my empty water buckets and run out the door before I’m even fully awake. So as a side note, please pray that a psycho killer’s never loose in Adet, because I know I’ll just instinctively run toward him with an empty water bucket.)

**I dedicate this blog post to all of the Ethiopian birds who have lost their lives due to barely visible closed windows. RIP.

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The Best

When I first moved to Adet and things were still new—when a town the size of a mall seemed the size of Manhattan—Ayele would walk me the ten minutes to and from school so I wouldn’t get lost (and trust me, I would have). Soon, when various back roads began to make sense, I realized he purposefully took a roundabout path around my house, when we could have instead cut through a shorter, more direct back alley.

“You must always avoid that area,” he explained when I asked. “It is a danger path.”

Always the bratty kid sister at heart, I took this as an invitation to explore on my own, and after quick preliminary investigations, I assumed the path’s ruggedness was what made it so “danger.” To get through, I needed to balance on logs and hop over rocks, and afterwards (obviously) gloat that I so effortlessly “conquered the danger.” I dubbed myself Adet’s Christopher Columbus, or more prestigiously, the new Dora the Explorer.

It wasn’t until several months later that I realized “danger” meant a road full of tela behts: houses selling homemade beer and, more surreptitiously, prostitution. While this didn’t deter my back road exploration, it pressed me to pass with a keener eye. I spent more time studying the women’s faces. I made it a point to talk with, to meet—to know each of these neighbors.

Today, this back alley is the best part of my day. When I round that first corner and hop the first log, I can’t stop smiling. Today, my favorite person in Adet lives on that road, in that corner tela beht.

No matter what she’s doing or whom she’s with, when I round that first corner, Betty will sprint to my side. “Eyeeen! Eyeeen! Eyeeen!!!!!!” she’ll yell with her two-year-old drawl. She’ll slip her small hand in mine, struggle with her five-size-too-big shoes, and escort me to the road.

If we’re walking toward school, she’ll ask about my schedule. “Are you going to primary school or high school, Eyeen?” “What will you teach?” “Will you come back?” “When will you come back?” After school, she’ll walk me all the way home, always first asking, “May I escort you to your house, Eyeen?”

No matter where we’re going, she’ll always kiss my hand and chirp “Chao, Eyeen!” before leaving my side.

I could be in the worst mood of my life—heck, I often am in the worst mood of my life—but no matter what, my heart is warm on that tiny back path. When I walk that short leg to school, I’m smiling.

Sometimes, if Betty’s not on the road when I approach, her sister or mother will yell in the house, “Betty! Erin’s coming!” and like lightening, she’ll sprint out to my side (often without shoes or clothes).

Once I found her bouncing around in the back of a parked truck with other neighborhood kids and she ecstatically trilled, “Eyeen!!! Look! It’s a car! I’m in a car!” I had to run so she wouldn’t throw herself off the side to come hold my hand, and it was only after 10 handshakes that she finally let me go.

“Will you come back?” she yelled after me. I’ll always come back, I vowed.

Now as I prepare to leave Adet in three months, I can’t stop thinking about Betty. What will she think when I’m not there? What will she do? Who will she be?

She’s been so integral to my Peace Corps experience… but such a small chapter of my life experience. I can’t imagine not seeing Betty every day, but soon, I won’t. In three months, she won’t be there.

In America, when preparing for the Peace Corps, I thought my most memorable moments would be at school; I thought my breakthroughs would be in the classroom. I assumed the moments when a child really got it, moments when I really got through, would be the times I murmured, “Yes! This is why I’m here!”

When preparing for Ethiopia, I thought the best moments would be the big ones. Moments after a big, successful project or a big cultural event, like a wedding or a holiday.

Within the past month, I’ve attended a wedding. I’ve gotten closer and closer to opening Adet’s first public library. I’ve coordinated two amazing female empowerment seminars. I’ve had breakthrough moments with my students. I’ve seen people really get it.

Yet amid all of these perfect project successes, these typical pamphlet moments, my favorite thing is rounding that corner. My biggest success is Betty’s smile; it’s hearing her “Eyeeen! Eyeeen!!!!” from a distance. No matter what happens—no matter whom I see or what I do—she’s the best part of my day. She’s the moment when I think, “This is why I’m here.”

I thought the Peace Corps would be about what I did. I thought what would matter most is how I changed, or how I helped.

But today, what matters most is the little girl who’d jump from a car to hold my hand. It’s the girl I’ve never taught in a class or coached in a program. It’s the girl I see for only five minutes a day.

Today, the most beautiful thing in my life is the most seemingly mundane. And in fifty years, when I remember Peace Corps, I’ll remember rounding that corner. When I think of Ethiopia, I think of those five minutes.

Today, tomorrow, and in 5,000 tomorrows, my greatest success will be Betty’s smile.

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The Difference Between Boys and Girls, And Other Important Discoveries.

I’ve come to associate routine activities, like going to school, running errands in town, or going to the market, with the different groups of kids I know I’ll see along the way. On the walk to school, for instance, I know I’ll meet the beauty queens: a team of six sassy six-year-olds who all sport unparalleled “cool girl” swagger.

Then around the market area, I know I’ll see the tough kids: anywhere from 10 to 20 elementary school boys who always scream “Erin! Erin! Erin!!!!! JOHN SENAAAAAA!!!!!” in my direction (because even after two years, apparently watching me wave a hand in front of my face like a WWF star isn’t old news).

Closer to town are the little girls who kiss my hands, while around the church are the wild munchkins, kids who I know will either be up in the trees, down in the mud or all over the place, running around.

After two years in Adet, I figured I knew all these primary school cliques inside and out. So imagine my surprise when I rounded the first corner to town this morning, instinctively expecting the same group of four brothers to run by my side, only to find that the oldest brother is actually a sister! In the past, I always assumed this “little boy” occasionally wore an older sister’s (or cousin’s or neighbor’s) dress during family laundry day, but it turns out (in light of the fact that today he sported cornrows and pierced ears) that he occasionally wore dresses because… he is a she! He is the older sister/neighbor/cousin!

I had to stop walking and catch my breath. Even after two years, I’m still learning so much every day! I’m still learning so much about Ethiopia! About myself! About the world!

I think that’s the single most important reason why Peace Corps service is such a beautiful thing; why retuned volunteers always call their experiences “life changing.”

As volunteers, we’re constantly growing. We’re constantly learning. We’re constantly learning that little boys are actually little girls.

About a year ago, a friend insightfully dubbed these everyday mind-blowing, eye-opening wonders—the similar, yet distinct lessons that all PCVs share—as “oh shit” moments. As I think you’ll soon agree, never has there been a more appropriate or more accurate term.

Like, “Oh shit! I’ve been calling my neighbor’s pets ‘goats’ for 17 months, but this morning, she told me they’re actually sheep!” Or, “Oh shit! So what do goats actually look like????”

Many oh shitters, some of the best, most uplifting oh shit moments, come after months and months of blindness, in what I like to think of as life’s magically rare “oh shit epiphanies.”

I didn’t realize until very recently (as one extremely inspirational, this-should-be-on-the-Peace-Corps-website example) that my host mom and I regularly communicate with sound effects.

“Psh! Psh! Psh!” means grinding coffee, while “Pish! Pish!” means “I have fleas!” or, “Do you have fleas?” and “PSHHH!!!” means punching someone in the face (yes, my devout Muslim host mother and I frequently discuss hypothetically punching people in the face).

You may notice that many of these sound effects seem very similar. Many times, what distinguishes one from the other is (first and most obviously) the corresponding hand motion, but more importantly, it is the emotional, heartfelt, mind reading-esque bond I that share with Mom.

When I returned home from school the other afternoon and found her hosting an outdoor coffee ceremony with several neighborhood women, she cheerfully beamed, “Erin! Put your things down and come drink coffee!” with the sudden afterthought, “Psh! Psh! Psh! Tomorrow!”

Though I instantly understood this as, “Tomorrow, I’ll also grind some coffee beans for you to have in your house,” the women all stared like she had grown 10 heads.

It took seconds of awkwardness (and awkward stares) for me to finally realize… “Oh shit (epiphany)! Mom and I really have something special!”

(While the other women simultaneously realized, “Oh SHIT! Erin’s really pushing Enana off the deep end!”) You see? Oh shit moments affect everyone. And they affect everyone in very different, special, glorious oh shit ways.

That’s something else I find really beautiful about my Peace Corps service: I’m constantly changing the way people see the world—even the world right around them.

Just the other afternoon, I told my friend Mihrtab that I think Avola Mountain, Adet’s most conspicuous landmark, looks a lot like a giant boob protruding from the earth… like Mother Nature’s boob, if you will. A couple days later, when I ran into him with a group of colleagues (lawyers and judges from the local court) he immediately exclaimed, “Oh! Erin’s the one who realized that Avola should be Boob Mountain (“Toot Tarara,” in Amharic)!” And as would be expected, they “oohed” and “ahhed,” and praised me as the nature genius I am.

Much better than my newly improved status with Adet’s High Court, however, is that (just think!) for the rest of their lives, these old men are going to look up at Avola and see it for what it really is. They’re going to look up and see a giant green boob.

And, “Oh shit! Their lives are better because of me.”

You see, my neighbors and I are constantly learning from each other, learning about each other, and learning new ways to relate to one another. Even if nothing else comes from my Peace Corps service, I know that will be enough.

(But I really hope the town administration officially renames Avola as “Toot Tarara,” and I really hope Enana opens her own sound effects language school.)

(Oh, and I hope I never again confuse a sheep with a goat.)

 

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At the Risk of Sounding Like an Angsty 17-year-old Girl…

I was sitting on the bus in Bahir Dar, waiting for it to fill up and go Adet, when a little chewing gum salesman, a boy of maybe 10 or 11, raced by potential customers to plop down next to me with a smile. He immediately started chattering away like an old friend, and we discussed Adet, my work there, English and America. The boy was refreshingly polite and remarkably intelligent, and his English was amazing. He stayed by my side—ignoring his tray of unsold gum—until the bus engine revved up to leave the station.

“Which primary school do you attend?” I asked, wondering if it was one assigned to the local PCV, thus explaining his confidence with English.

“I’m not schooled,” he quickly responded, as though it were a ridiculous question.

“What?” I asked, certain I misheard.

“I don’t go to school,” he repeated, and seconds later he was gone, off to spend the rest of his day selling chewing gum.

My heart dropped to the pit of my stomach, and it still drops whenever I think of that afternoon.

I’ve lived in Ethiopia for over a year and a half and I know that many children don’t attend school. I know a majority of the country is illiterate. I know the facts. I see street kids in my town every day, and I see children working the fields when they should be in class. So why was meeting this kid such a shock? Why can’t I stop thinking about him?

Why is poverty only real when it’s personal, or when it has a face?

I came to Ethiopia because I thought I could better myself and better the world. I thought by immersing myself in the heart of hardship—by seeing it, feeling it and living it every day—I would learn to make a genuine and tangible difference. But in so many ways, this experience is making me more blind and detached than I ever thought I could be.

In my town, I walk by beggars regularly and, after a year and a half, I don’t think twice about it. I work at a school where most students don’t have shoes but again, after a year and a half, I no longer think about it. After a year and a half, what was once shocking, desolate or heartbreaking is just… normal. It’s just life.

One of my neighbors, Slenate, is a nine-year-old girl from a nearby village. Her family couldn’t afford to keep her, so they sent her to Adet to be a serentanya (“servant” in Amharic) for a family on my compound. Every day, from dawn till dusk, she works. In the morning, she helps the mother make breakfast. While the mother is at work, she watches the three-year-old son (who, by the way, I’m pretty sure is the devil incarnate. I’ve babysat my share of bratty kids, but this boy takes the cake). She washes clothes when they need washing. She serves coffee at evening ceremonies. She helps prepare dinner. She never gets to just be a kid. She never gets a moment for herself.

Not to say that this family, her bosses, are bad people. In fact, I feel quite the opposite about them—they are some of the nicest people (excluding the son, of course) that I know. By their cultural standpoint, this is normal—kind, even. They are providing clothes and food and shelter to a child who would otherwise have none.

Most days, that’s how I see it too. Most days, it’s easier to accept than question. Most days, I turn my mind off and walk around on autopilot. I see things without really seeing them, because it’s easier that way. I don’t think. I make jokes. I know the facts, but I don’t really feel them.

Then on days like today, when it all catches up to me, I’m overwhelmed and furious. I want to yell at everyone. I want to yell at myself.

It’s not fair that an intelligent boy’s future is selling chewing gum. It’s not fair that my students have to live with bare feet and ripped clothes. It’s not fair that Slenate will never go to school and never have a childhood. It’s not fair that their paths were decided before they could even walk.

And it’s not fair that I could do a million Peace Corps and there’d still be children without shoes. I could stay here for years, but there’d still be smart, polite children selling gum. There’d still be girls like Slenate.

I have five months left and this is supposed to be the easy part—the final stretch. Instead, I’m anxious, I’m moody, I’m discouraged. I have five months left and in the big picture, I’ve done so little. In the big picture, I can only do so little.

Maybe this is a normal part of my service. Maybe all volunteers reach these questions, and maybe they find answers. Or maybe they don’t.

Right now, the only thing I know for sure is that I want to stay angry. I want to be discouraged.

Right now, I know I’d rather be angry than blind.

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Things That Still Aren’t Old (Even After 21 Months)

After 21 months in Ethiopia, things that were once strange or profound now feel mundane, and I often forget that seemingly routine moments are actually unique.

I can ease my way through oncoming cattle the same way I once maneuvered through oncoming tourists on the metro. My best friends are rural farmers and housewives whom I once would have Google imaged and read about like fictitious movie characters.

After 21 months, my once crazy, weird, exotic life is now just… life. But even after 600 and some days of the same moments and the same people and the same scenes, these five things don’t get old:

1. Ayele. Ayele has proven himself as the most amazing “adopted” Ethiopian dad over and over and over again, but I’m still dumbstruck by how above and beyond he always goes to look out for me. About a week ago, he left town to visit family in a distant village and when he was gone, a little boy spit on me and ran away. No one was around when it happened and afterwards, I locked myself in my house, privately cried it out and didn’t mention it to anyone. About a week after Ayele returned, we walked by this little boy’s house on the way home from school and he exclaimed, “Oh Erin, I forgot! Did a young boy spit on you? I found his parents when I returned and he was punished.” The next morning, the boy came to my house to apologize. Weeks later, I still don’t know how Ayele found out about this “spitting incident.”

2. My town “chaperones.” When walking anywhere, I am always hand-in-hand with at least three children. You’d think that at this point I’d be old news to them, but I’m not. Sometimes children will sprint to my side, catch their breath, shake my hand and then run away. Many times when I round a corner, I hear children call to each other, “ERIN IS COMING!!! ERIN IS COMING!!!!!” and then seconds later, I’m surrounded by children ready to escort me down the road. A majority of the children kiss my hands before saying goodbye, and it makes my day every single time.

3. I love people who don’t speak a word of English. I have the same relationship with my Ethiopian brother and mother that I have with my real mom and brothers, even though they can only speak Amharic. When I first moved to Adet, I wrote home to my family about all the rural farmers. Today, these farmers are my home; they are my family. Even after 21 months, I get so happy every time I think about how different we are and every time I realize how little that matters.

4. I’m not a tourist. When I used to walk into the Bahir Dar bus station, station workers assumed I wanted to go somewhere touristy like Gonder or Addis Ababa, and they would try to drag me toward those mini buses. Yesterday when I walked into the station, a distant passerby called out, “Hello, Miss Adet!” as though I were Adet’s “Miss Universe” contestant. A couple seconds later when a little boy ran up asking (in English), “Hello madam, do you go to Gonder? To Addis Ababa?” his friend retorted (in Amharic), “You idiot, she speaks Amharic. She’s going to Adet.” That’s another thing that never gets old… I love being able to understand what people say about me.

5. I’m a freak. When I first moved to Ethiopia, I would “escape” to Bahir Dar or Addis Ababa when Adet got too hard to handle. I traveled for hours and hours to these cities to treat myself with indoor plumbing, two-story buildings and “luxurious” cement sidewalks. Last week, I was in Bahir Dar for a three-day meeting and I missed Adet so much! In Bahir Dar, I had to get used to having a sink (right in my room!)… I honestly missed my various water buckets. I missed my mud house. I missed waking up to goats bleating (is that the right term?) and pigeons dancing on my tin roof. I know I always joke about how Peace Corps is turning me into a socially awkward freak… but I kind of secretly like being a freak. In America, I’m going to miss only showering once a week, and I’m really going to miss my water buckets.

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